Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Abruzzi Celery Soup

I love the taste of celery, and just picked up a wonderful flavorful bunch at the farmer's market this weekend. The best thing to do with celery is celery soup -- but the standard French recipe, a sophisticated puree with leeks and potatoes -- is designed to be a gentle first course to be followed by a robust entree, and is not satisfying as a standalone dish. I found this very nice Italian recipe online, an excellent one-dish meal with some crusty bread.

1 T olive oil
1 small onion, diced
2 slices of bacon, diced
1 T tomato paste
1 bunch of celery, diced into 1/2 inch pieces
3 cups broth (chicken or vegetable)
1/4 cup uncooked rice
salt, pepper, and grated Parmesan cheese to taste.

Heat oil in a large heavy saucepan. Add onion and bacon and saute gently until onion begins to brown. Stir in tomato paste and celery and saute 5 minutes. Add stock and simmer for 20 minutes. Add rice and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Pour into bowls and sprinkle with parmesan to taste. Serves 2.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Cold Rice Salad

This is a really tasty alternative to the usual pasta salad for summer dinners or for taking to picnics. The original recipe I adapted this from used farro instead of rice, and I think you could also use couscous with good results. Makes enough to serve about 8-10 as a side dish. Keeps well in the fridge for several days.

1 cup arborio rice, rinsed and drained
2 1/2 cups water (or stock)
1 tsp salt

Dressing:
1 medium orange, zest and juice
1 shallot, chopped
1/3 cup Parmesan, freshly shredded
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1/2 cup good quality olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

4 to 6 big handfuls of mixed salad greens, washed and dried (see note)
1/2 cup slivered almonds
1/2 cup goat cheese, crumbled

Combine the rice, salt, and water in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the rice is done.

Dressing: Whisk together the orange juice, orange zest, shallot, Parmesan cheese, white wine vinegar, and olive oil.

Toss the salad greens with a bit of the dressing. Once the rice is cooled*, add the rice and another generous splash of the dressing - gently toss again. Add the almonds and the goat cheese. Add more dressing to taste.

*Note: I made the rice and dressing the night before and assembled everything just before dinner. You could also add any other cold vegetables you like to this -- fresh peas, grilled zucchini, etc.

Tuesday, July 8, 2008

Jerk Chicken

From NYT 7/2/2008

Time: About 1 1/2 hours, plus at least 12 hours’ marinating

2 3 1/2- to 4-pound chickens, quartered, or 8 whole legs, or 5 to 6 pounds bone-in, skin-on thighs
1 large bunch scallions (about 8), white and green parts
2 shallots, peeled and halved
4 to 6 Scotch bonnet chili peppers, stems removed, or habaneros
1 2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and coarsely chopped
6 garlic cloves, peeled
1/4 cup fresh thyme leaves, or 1 tablespoon dried
2 tablespoons ground allspice, more for sprinkling
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon salt, more for sprinkling
1 tablespoon black pepper
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon white or apple cider vinegar
Freshly squeezed juice of 2 limes.

1. At least 1 day before cooking, pat chicken dry with paper towels. Combine remaining ingredients in a blender or food processor and grind to a coarse paste. Slather all over chicken, including under skin. Refrigerate 12 to 36 hours. Bring to room temperature before cooking and lightly sprinkle with more salt and ground allspice.

2. Prepare a charcoal grill: Clean and oil grates, and preheat to medium heat using one chimney of charcoal. The temperature can start as high as 300 degrees and go as low as 250. For best results, coals should be at least 12 inches away from chicken. If necessary, push coals to one side of grill to create indirect heat. Add two large handfuls of soaked pimento (allspice) wood sticks and chips (see note) or other aromatic wood chips to coals, then close grill. When thick white smoke billows from grill, place chicken on grate, skin side up, and cover. Let cook undisturbed for 30 to 35 minutes.

3. Uncover grill. Chicken will be golden and mahogany in places. Chicken thighs may already be cooked through. For other cuts, turn chicken over and add more wood chips, and charcoal if needed. Cover and continue cooking, checking and turning every 10 minutes. Jerk chicken is done when skin is burnished brown and chicken juices are completely clear, with no pink near the bone. For large pieces, this can take up to an hour. Serve hot or warm, with rice and beans.

Variations: If you have no grill, chicken can be baked in oven at 375 degrees for about 45 minutes; the smokiness will be lost but seasoning will be intact. Jerk rub can be used on a boneless leg of lamb or pork roast, to be cooked on a medium-hot grill or in oven.

Note: Pimento wood sticks and chips are available at http://www.pimentowood.com/.
Yield: 8 servings.

Comments: I was having back-to-back dinner parties, so I baked one of these the night before and then the following day I just put it on the grill for a couple of minutes to crisp it up a little and it was very tasty. Leftovers were also very good cold -- would make a nice picnic dish.

Kasu Cod

Ingredients:
2 to 2-1/2 lbs. Black Cod fillet, skin on, bones removed, cut into 4 serving pieces
1/2 cup kosher or table salt, more if needed
6 oz. (3/4 cup) kasu paste (available at Asian markets)
1/3 cup sugar
3/4 cup water
Fresh ginger, thinly sliced and blanched, or pickled ginger for serving

Directions: Place black cod pieces skin side down in a shallow dish. Sprinkle a generous layer of salt over the fish, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 24 hours. Rinse the salt from the fish and pat dry, then return the fish to the cleaned dish.

Zucchini and quinoa salad

This is from Bon Appetit, with some changes

1 15-ounce can of chickpeas, drained
3 T lemon juice
5 T olive oil
2 garlic cloves
2 t cumin seeds
1 t turmeric
1 t smoked paprika
2 c water
1 c quinoa (~6 oz.), rinsed and drained
1 t kosher salt
1 1/2 lb zucchini, cut into 1/2 inch rounds
1 medium onion or equivalent shallots, chopped
1 1/2 t ground cumin
4 scallions, sliced
1/4 c chopped Italian parsley

Combine chickpeas, lemon juice, 3 T of the olive oil, and garlic in a large bowl and let marinate 15 minutes to 2 hours.

Heat 1 T of oil in a saucepan. Add cumin seeds, 1/2 of the turmeric, 1/2 of the paprika, and stir about 1 minute over medium heat. Add water, quinoa, and salt, bring to a simmer, reduce heat, cover and simmer until water is absorbed.

In a saute pan, toss zucchini with 1 T oil, ground cumin, rest of the turmeric and paprika, and saute with the onion in a tablespoon of oil. (Or grill zucchini until tender and chop into 1/2 inch pieces.)

Add quinoa mixture and zucchini mixture to chickpea mixture and season with salt and pepper to taste. Good hot as well as cold.

Wednesday, June 18, 2008

North Carolina Pulled Pork (pressure cooker)

I'm still looking for the ultimate pulled pork recipe -- this one is good but a little bland. I want that tangy vinegar taste you get down in NC and KY.

2 T cooking oil
1 (3 to 5lb) Boston butt or pork shoulder
3 T brown sugar
2 T dry mustard
1 t salt
1 large onion, chopped
5 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1-1/2 cups water
1/4 t ground red pepper
1 cup vinegar
1/4 t black pepper
1/2 cup tomato paste
1/2 cup Worcestershire sauce

Heat oil in pressure cooker until hot. Cut pork into 4-6 pieces and brown in oil. In a bowl, combine remaining ingredients, stir well. Pour mixture over pork. Cook in pressure cooker about 45 minutes according to instructions. Remove from heat, let cool.

You can seve immediately, but the sauce will be a little greasy. If you have time, remove roast from sauce, place sauce in fridge until fat congeals. Skim fat and discard. Remove meat and shred. Return meat to sauce in pan and stir well. Cover and bake at 325 for 15 minutes or until thoroughly heated. Great if made day ahead and reheated second day.

Yellow Cake with Chocolate Frosting

Adapted from Junior's NYT 5/28/08

FOR THE CAKE:
Butter, for greasing cake pans
1 2/3 cups sifted cake flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
3/4 teaspoon salt
10 extra-large eggs, separated
1 1/3 cups sugar
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon pure lemon extract
3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

FOR THE MACAROON CRUNCH:
1 1/2 cups finely chopped nuts (almonds, pecans and/or walnuts)
1/2 cup sweetened coconut flakes

FOR THE CHOCOLATE FROSTING:
8 cups (2 pounds) sifted confectioners' sugar
1 2/3 cups unsweetened cocoa powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1/2 cup margarine, at room temperature
1/4 cup dark corn syrup
2 tablespoons vanilla extract
3/4 cup heavy cream, or as needed.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter two round 9-inch cake pans, and line bottoms with parchment or wax paper. Sift cake flour, baking powder and salt together.

2. Using a stand mixer, beat egg yolks on high for 5 minutes. With mixer still running, gradually add 1 cup sugar and continue beating until thick, light yellow ribbons form in bowl, about 5 minutes more, scraping bowl two or three times. Beat in the vanilla and lemon extracts. Sift flour mixture over batter and stir it in by hand until blended. Add melted butter, and stir until completely incorporated.

3. In a large, clean bowl, and using the mixer's whisk attachment, beat egg whites and cream of tartar together on high until frothy. Gradually add remaining 1/3 cup sugar, and continue beating until whites are stiff but not dry. Stir 1 cup of whites into batter, then gently fold in remaining whites until blended. Divide batter between prepared pans. Bake until golden and center springs back when lightly touched, about 25 minutes. Cool on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then remove from pans and cool completely.

4. For macaroon crunch: Toss nuts and coconut together, and spread on a baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees until golden and crunchy, 10 to 15 minutes, tossing twice. Set aside to cool.
5. For chocolate frosting: Sift the confectioners' sugar, cocoa and salt together. Using a stand mixer, cream together the butter and margarine on high until light yellow and slightly thickened, about 3 minutes. With mixer still running, add corn syrup and vanilla. Reduce speed to low and add sugar mixture in two batches, beating well after each. Blend in 3/4 cup cream until frosting is a spreading consistency, adding more if needed. Increase speed to high and beat until light and creamy, about 2 minutes more; there will be about 8 cups of frosting. Spoon about 1 cup into a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip.

6. Assembly: Using a long serrated knife, cut each cake horizontally into two equal layers. Spread first layer with about a fifth of frosting, then place second layer on top of it and frost it, too. Repeat with third and fourth layers. Frost sides with all remaining frosting except what is in pastry bag. Pat macaroon crunch on sides of cake (not top) until covered. Using frosting in pastry bag, pipe 6 rosettes on top of cake. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate, allowing cake to stand at room temperature for about an hour before slicing.

Yield: One 9-inch cake.